Dune Costumes Were Inspired by Balenciaga, Tarot Cards and Insects

This story in regards to the costumes of “Dune” first appeared within the Under-the-Line Concern of TheWrap’s awards journal.

Denis Villeneueve was very clear with costume designers Jacqueline West and Bob Morgan about what “Dune” was and what it wasn’t. He wasn’t in search of sci-fi or steampunk, and that’s precisely why he needed West and Morgan within the first place.

“It was clear that Denis needed this psychological, multilayered, political drama peppered with mysticism that was proper up my alley,” mentioned West, who had initially been reluctant to tackle the sci-fi traditional. “Instantly I learn the e-book, and I used to be hooked.”

West, a three-time Oscar nominee most just lately for “The Revenant,” had by no means accomplished a futuristic movie, not to mention labored in shut collaboration with a companion the way in which she did with Morgan, whose resume consists of “Maleficent: Mistress of Evil” and “Batman v Superman: Daybreak of Justice.” However collectively they created the unified look that served Frank Herbert’s universe. Villeneuve “gave us a number of freedom to create,” Morgan added, “and in addition was simply so collaborative.”

The whole lot had its personal inspiration. For Home Atreides, Timothée Chalamet was outfitted in what they known as “Mod-eval,” Medieval-rooted costumes drawn from Romanov work, tying in with the concept of the top of a dynasty. The desert tribe of the Fremens had wraps that resembled historic nomads and photos from Tuareg salt caravans, in addition to the movies of David Lean. The elegant but easy silk robes worn by Girl Jessica (Rebecca Ferguson) had been modeled off work by Goya and Giotto, plus the work of one other Spanish icon, Cristóbal Balenciaga. You may discover the look of the Bene Gesserit sorceresses in tarot playing cards and chess items. The evil Harkonnens had been like bugs, with the leather-based textured to resemble a bug’s shell. And if hulking armor was adequate for the Knights Templar, it absolutely could be adequate for the Atreides military.

“You need to begin someplace,” West defined. “It was so huge and it was a lot work,” Morgan added, “we leap-frogged lots.”

“Dune’s” stillsuits worn within the harsh desert are a first-rate instance, with every needing to be a “bespoke” outfit that might stretch, transfer and be molded to suit each physique kind, whether or not it’s Chalamet, Ferguson or Jason Momoa. To assemble every one, almost 150 particular person sample items needed to be crafted individually by artisans Morgan employed from throughout Europe. They labored tirelessly on prototypes and complete designs earlier than displaying Villeneuve a single outfit. 

That they had just about no guidelines, besides one: no zippers or buttons, which “appeared archaic,” West mentioned. A shirt design worn by Chalamet and Momoa was impressed by a well-known Omar Sharif shirt from “Physician Zhivago”—however fairly than buttons, it laced up with uncommon earth magnets lined throughout the shirt, which induced issues as a result of Momoa’s character was speculated to put on his shirt open more often than not.

“(Chalamet’s) shirt would simply flip up and shut, and it could go (click on, click on, click on, click on),” West mentioned, making popping noises. “When Duncan Idaho (Momoa) is sporting the identical shirt, we needed to take all of the metals out and put pennies in, as a result of each time he would transfer the shirt, it could shut mechanically.”

Learn extra from TheWrap’s “Dune” bundle right here:

Making ‘Dune’ – Right here’s How Denis Villeneuve and His Workforce Pulled Off Sci-Fi Epic (Video)

Why ‘Dune’ Manufacturing Designers Constructed a ‘Visible Bible’ Earlier than Day One among Capturing

‘Dune’ Cinematographer Nonetheless Finds Sand in His Baggage 2 Years After the Shoot

The Sound of ‘Dune’: The Big Worm Was Laborious, however the Magical Voice Was Tougher

Why ‘Dune’ Editor Traveled to Budapest However Wouldn’t Go on the Set

Why ‘Dune’s’ Greatest Visible Results Problem Wasn’t the Worms However the Sand

‘Dune’ Composer Hans Zimmer Reveals the Word That ‘Tore the Enamel Off My Enamel’

Learn extra from the Under-the-Line Concern right here.